Ron, 2-1-12
You mentioned switching the single bowl master cylinder on the '55 T Bird over to a dual master cylinder. Which one did you use?
A. I used a master cylinder for a 1968 Mustang with front disc brakes. I don't recall if I had to change the length of the push rod so purchasing an adjustable rod will make things easier.
Bill, 1-03-12
I need to fill some tiny holes in the fiberglass body on my project. I need something that isn't going to shrink.
A. Try Evercoat fiberglass jelly # 473. It will work great to fill the holes. As for the shrinkage, bondo and fiberglass tend to shrink about the same so if you are finding shrinkage after a panel has been repaired I would think the problem lies more in the type of primer being used. Be sure to use a good quality 2K primer. DO NOT use the old lacquer based primers that don't require a hardener. These shrink. 2K primers do not.
Scott 12 - 22- 11
I am building a '49 Austin and was considering using the spray on chrome from Alsa Corp. Any dealings with that company? I"d like to know if their product is worth the high expense of purchasing the product.
A. I contacted Albert at ALSA Corp, told him who I was, and asked for a sample so I could report on it thru AR. I now have the product and will be testing it as soon as possible.
Considering the way chrome shops are disappearing this may be a great substitute.
Jeremy, 12-8-11
The shop that did the body work on my project didn't apply epoxy to the bare metal. They used a 2K primer. Is that going to be okay or do I need to remove this primer and apply epoxy?
A. I like to see epoxy over bare metal on older vehicles, however, since they used a good brand of 2K primer (I know which brand) you can leave the primer on the car and proceed with the restoration.
Doug, 12 0 10-11
I have a compressor that cranks out 24 cfm at 90 psi. What do I need to do to control the cfm input at the gun?
A. Good news here. As HVLP spray guns have improved you no longer have to be concerned with the cfm at the input. Just set the psi at the inlet according to the specs that come with the gun and you are good to go.
Tony 11-11-11
I have updated the brakes on my 1968 Camero going with disc on the front and drum on the rear. My issue is that I can't get fluid to the rear brakes. Any suggestions?
A. Try removing the proportioning valve and bypassing it. That should give you fluid at the rear. If not the problem is in the master cylinder. If you get fluid to the rear brakes check to see which way you need to turn the adjuster on the proportioning valve to let fluid flow. Some of these valves work backward and when you think it is open it is actually closed.
Chip 10-13-11
I need to replace the body mounts on my project car. Any help to prevent twisting the body when I remove it from the frame would help.
A. Build a cage inside the passenger compartment using 1x1 square steel tubing and weld it near the windshield post and kick panels at the front and at the package tray and wheel houses at the rear. A good test is to lift the body and check the fit of the doors. If they open and close correctly you are good to go. If not add more bracing. Also, check out Project Street Rod to see how I braced that body when I chopped the top on that car.
Pete 9-20-11
Can I paint the black side moldings on my C4 Vette?
A. You can. Go with a black base color and put down at least 3 coats.
Mark, 8-30-11
In your article on the Mustang quarter panel install you didn't mention how you attached the new quarter to the new wheel house. I assume you welded it?
A. I did. I drilled a series of spot weld holes - 5/16-inch - spaced about 2 inches apart and used those holes as spot weld points to join the two panels.
Bob, 8-24-11
Q. I'm restoring an International Travelall. The body was dipped a few years ago and now has some surface rust showing. I plan to use Eastwood Fast Etch to kill the rust but I'm not sure what I should do after that.
A. After the etching solution is dry sand the body with 180 and cover it with a urethane primer. You can't apply an epoxy over anything that has been treated with an etching solution.
Jay, 8-15-11
Q. I want to restore an electric Razor for my grandson. Can I sand it and paint it with a spray can or do I need to take more preparation steps?
A. The Razor doesn't have a lot of painted surfaces and kids will use and abuse it. I would scuff sand it with 320 and spray it with something like Krylon spray for plastic.
Phil, 8-14-11
Q. I'm getting tiger stripes in my color coat. Any suggestions?
A. Tiger stripes are common in metallic base color coats and are usually caused by making each pass too slow and too heavy. I would make sure the gun is being held at least 8-12 inches from the surface then speed up each pass. If the striping persist try criss crossing the pattern - on a hood spray from top to bottom on one pass then make the next pass from side to side. That should eliminate the tiger stripes.
Clay, 8-5-11
Q. Is there a compound and polish you prefer?
A. I use 3M 6085 compound on a foam pad # 5737 and 3M 6068 polish on a foam pad # 5733.
Orlando, 8-3-11
Q. I need to repaint the emblems on my '56 Ford truck but I'm having trouble masking them off. Any suggestions?
A. Try Eastwood # 34112 Detail Micro Brush kit. These tiny brushes will let you paint even the most intricate details on any emblem. Be sure to use enamel paint. I like the model car bottles of enamel.
Bob 7-29-11
Q. I live in CA and Eastwood tells me they cannot ship epoxy to me due to EPA rulings. What now?
A. I'm going to address this issue in an upcoming article but in the mean time you will need to go through a local automotive paint store to get the epoxy you need. In CA that probably means purchasing PPG DPLV Epoxy, which is a low VOC epoxy that meets the new rulings.
Roger 7-28-11
Q. I am restoring a 1987 Dakota. From your articles it sounds like I use an etching primer because the vehicle is post 1980???
A.Only if you are working with bare metal. If the old finish is still on the truck I would sand it down to the primer and apply epoxy over the old finish. If you are taking the truck all the way down to the bare metal then go with the etching primer followed by urethane primer/surfacer.
John 7-23-11
Q. Do you have any tips on painting candy colors over other colors? For
example, a Candy Red (where I mean the color is semi-transparent and
lets the underlying color come through) over a metallic or non-
metallic silver? I think it would be really hard to lay down the red
color coat and having a consistent layer without dark/light areas
where the covering is not consistent.
A.There is a trick to doing transparent candy colors and even if you are very seasoned at the trick getting the color right is very difficult. The trick is to add the candy color to the clear coat. The more clear you put on the deeper the red becomes and most of the time you don't end up with light and dark spots.
Once you achieve the tint you are looking for you will need to cover your work with at least 3 more coats of clear without the candy added to it.
Tim 7-12 -11
Q. I need to replace the drip rail moldings on my '65 Fairlane. Any suggestions?
A. Those moldings are made of stainless steel and they are very fragile. They hook over the metal rails at the top and clip over the bottom. I like to use a plastic windshield knife to remove them by placing the knife under the bottom edge of the molding and tapping it outward with a rubber hammer. This action frees the bottom of the molding from the metal rail and will allow you to gently pry the molding off of the rail. Go slow and work your way from the front to the rear and the molding will come right off.
Also, repop moldings can be difficult to install. If you can locate good used moldings that is the best way to go. Just polish the stainless steel and they will look like new.
James 7-3-11
Q. After welding in a patch panel and grinding the welds smooth I found a few pin holes in the welds. Do I need to weld those pin holes?
A. I would, if only to prevent moisture from getting between the panel and the filler. Moisture has a way of finding even the smallest pin holes.
Scott 6-27-11
Q. The grillel in my 70 Charger is cracked. What should I use to repair those cracks?
A. I've had good luck using 3M 8115 epoxy adhesive. It will also fill any holes you might have. Just tape the shiny side and apply 8115 to the inside.
Scott 6-28-11
Q. The paint store told me to apply etching primer to my new wheel wells then cover that with epoxy before appling undercoating. You don't seem to use much etching primer. Why?
A. The store is steering you wrong. Epoxy isn't compatible with most etching primers so forget the etching primer. Give those new wheel wells 2 coats of epoxy, wait 24 hours and apply the undercoating. Should give you a bullet proof finish under there.
Sal 6-24-11
Q. Is it really necessary to apply a seal coat?
A. I usually do. A seal coat can cover missed sand scratches in the primer coat and help with coverage if you use a tintable sealer.
However, as long as you use a 2K primer the seal coat isn't mandatory.
Tony 6-21 -11
Q. When is the best time to apply seam sealer?
A. My preference is to apply seam sealer after the car, or part, has been primed and block sanded and just before applying the seal coat and color coats. Be sure to allow time for the seam sealer to dry before applying the seal coat.
Scott 6-14-11
Q.I sand blasted the hood on my '70 Charger and primed with HOK KDA2000. You seem to prefer epoxy. Am I okay here?
A. You are. KDA 2000 is formulated for application directly over bare metal, which is the same reason I prefer epoxy. It bonds fantastically to bare metal.
Bob - 6-13-11
Q. I want to add some rust protection to the backside of the new chrome bumpers on my project. Any suggestions?
A. Try masking off the shiny side and coating the back of the bumpers with rubberized undercoating.
Aaron - 6-5-11
Q. The door on my PT was caught in the wind and is now difficult to open. Any suggestions?
A. If I had the car I could correct the problem in about three minutes. I would suggest taking the car by a body shop and asking them to adjust the door. They will use a bar to lift the door and pull the lower hinge back into alignment, which is what the door needs. Here is wind swept Amarillo we do this adjustment for free. Others may charge you a few bucks but it is worth it. If you leave the door as is this will cause stress on the latch and wear it out. Much more costly in the end.
Jake 6-5-11
Q. I have a visible gas pump in need or restoration. Interested?
A. Won't be my first gas pump rodeo. Depending upon condition should run you $2000.00 -$3000.00. Should be worth $5000-$6000 restored.
Clay 6-4-11
Q. I'm using DZ3 as my prime coat on my '49 Packard and have sanded through in a few spots. Do I need to apply more primer to those areas or can I apply the color coat?
A. I would apply at least 2 more coats then wet sand before applying the color.
Q. I had to purchase more primer and the paint guy tells me not to wet sand the DZ3 because it will soak up the moisture. Any thoughts?
A. Here's the deal. DZ3 is not a catalzyed primer so it isn't the best thing out there. However, once it dries it will not soak up moisture. Back in the old days we wet sanded this stuff every day, blew it dry, and applied color. No issues. Maybe the paint guy just wanted to sell you something more expensive.
Follow up - Since you are planning to spray black lacquer you MUST lay down a seal coat. Black tends to hold solvents longer than other colors and that can cause issues with the lacquer based primer.
John 5-28-11
Q. I plan to spray my project using acrylic enamel. You seem to always recommend the use of a seal coat. Is that really necessary with enamel?
A. Acrylic enamel has great filliing qualities in that it will fill minor sand scratches and still lay flat. Enamel is also compatible with just about every substrate out there. So yes, I would think you will okay to omit the seal coat under acrylic enamel.
Craig 5-24-11
Q. No question, just thought I would let you know I took your idea of the portable paint booth and used a 10x10 gazabo cover and covered it with plastic to make a small booth to paint parts in.
A. Nice!!
Gary 5-23-11
Q.I replaced the quarter panel on my car and brazed it on. Now I have some warping I need to remove. Any suggestions?
A. First off, quit brazing and use a MIG. You can rent one if necessary, and it will do a far better job. To remove the warping I would try shrinking the metal using a torch to heat a small area then immediately quenching that area with a wet cloth. This method will take some time, but may be the best way to deal with the warping.
Brad. 5-16-11
Q. It looks like you paint with the doors, hood, deck lid off of the body. How much time do you allow for the paint to dry before installing these parts?
A. I give the paint at least two weeks to cure before installing any painted part. I also use a lot of masking tape around the edges of these parts to prevent chipping as I install them.
